Cap-and-ball black-powder revolvers have enjoyed a resurgence in popularity over the past couple of decades, thanks to being featured in several prominent Western TV series, movies, and video games. Plus, they’re a relatively inexpensive and historically interesting way to get into the firearms world, and they’re just a heck of a lot of fun. In this article we’re going to give you the rundown on cap-and-ball revolvers, discuss the basic tools and components required for their use, and tell you some of our favorite brands and types. So keep your powder dry and let’s get started!
What’s the best model of cap-and-ball revolver for beginners?
If you want to get into cap-and-ball revolvers due to a TV show, movie, or video game, you’ll probably want to purchase a similar style of revolver to the specific one that piqued your interest. This is a perfectly legitimate reason to buy a black powder firearm, and buying a gun that’s similar or identical to your fantasy gun will probably provide you the most satisfying ownership experience.
On the other hand, if you’re not sure what model of revolver you should get, and just want to get into the hobby, we recommend either a replica of the Colt 1851 Navy (in .36 caliber, starting at around $250 at time of publication) or the Colt 1860 Army (in .44 caliber, starting at around $300). If you prefer a more square profile and octagonal barrel, or want lower recoil and cheaper projectiles, then the .36 is superior. If you like the smoother, rounder looks and/or the bigger thump of the .44, then go with the Army.
This style of revolver is by far the most popular cap and ball design in history, as well as among modern hobbyists and shooters, and for good reason. In our experience, the Colt design is much more forgiving of black powder fouling than the Remington, and the Colt grip shape and ergonomics relating to the hammer/trigger reach fit more people’s hands better. That said, if you’re more interested in the history of the Remington style revolvers, or prefer how they look and handle, modern replicas of the Remington Navy (in .36 caliber) or Army (in .44 caliber), both starting at around $300 currently, are perfectly acceptable for new and experienced shooters.
What components are needed for loading cap and ball revolvers?
Say you’ve purchased or been given a cap-and-ball revolver and you’re anxious to get to the range and shoot it. What do you actually need? You can’t go to most modern gun stores and buy loaded ammunition for this type of historical firearm. They’re called cap and ball revolvers for a reason. The components absolutely necessary for loading and shooting a cap and ball revolver are:
- Black powder or black powder substitute propellant of the appropriate granulation (see the section below for more details)
- Pure lead balls or conical bullets of the appropriate diameter for your revolver (generally a few thousandths larger than chamber diameter)
- Percussion caps of the correct size (generally #10 caps work best for most modern percussion revolvers, but you may find #11 caps fit better on your particular gun)
- Either grease/black-powder lube over the projectile, or a lubed felt wad below the projectile
- You can also make and load paper cartridges in place of the loose powder and ball. You can also still purchase premade paper cartridges for cap-and-ball revolvers, but they’re extremely expensive today, typically around $3 per shot before shipping/HAZMAT
Video: Making Cap & Ball Paper Cartridges
One of the things people love about cap-and-ball black-powder revolvers is their simplicity and historical loading/firing sequence. Historically, cap-and-ball revolvers were primarily loaded with paper cartridges, which were sold in wooden or paper packets generally containing 6 rounds. Each paper cartridge contained a conical lead bullet, an appropriate charge of black powder (see below for more on that), and the nose was usually dipped in beeswax or another suitable organic lubricant. You would insert a complete paper cartridge, bullet-side to the front, into a chamber from the front side of the cylinder, and ram the bullet into the chamber using either the attached loading lever or a separate tool. Inside the package you would also typically find 7 percussion caps, which would be pressed one at a time onto each nipple or cone at the rear of each chamber. The percussion cap is the ignition source that sets off the black powder in each chamber after the cap is struck by the revolver’s hammer. The paper was typically nitrated so it was fully consumed by the flames generated in each chamber as the revolver was fired.
While some people still enjoy making and shooting paper cartridges in their black powder revolvers, most people choose to use loose powder and round lead balls, often with a lubed felt wad placed between the powder charge and the ball, or some suitable grease or black powder lube over the top of each ball as it’s seated. Beeswax mixed with olive oil, mutton tallow, or lard is a popular combination, but you can use any black-powder approved lube.
This grease or lube serves two important functions. First, some of it is blown down the barrel with the projectile and helps to keep the fouling soft for improved accuracy and easier cleaning. Some lube is also blown onto the arbor or cylinder pin and helps keep things moving after multiple shots. The second important function of this grease or lubricant is that it can help prevent chainfires, which is a potentially dangerous occurrence where flames from one fired shot can enter one or more other chambers and set off additional rounds unintentionally.
Despite what you may hear, chainfires can happen both from the rear (when using ill-fitting caps) or from the front (if chambers are damaged/oval and/or the projectiles don’t seal the chamber mouths completely). So we strongly recommend the use of well-fitting projectiles that are a few thousandths oversized to the chambers, as well as either lubed felt wads below the projectile or a suitable black powder lube smeared over the projectile (or both).
How do you load a cap-and-ball revolver?
This description is intended for the majority of modern cap-and-ball replica firearms in the Colt or Remington Army/Navy pattern, all of which have integral loading levers. If you’re using loose powder and ball, like most cap and ball shooters today do, the sequence for loading is as follows:
- Place the unloaded revolver on half-cock so the cylinder rotates freely.
- Measure an appropriate charge of black powder (or suitable substitute) into a powder measure, and pour the charge into an empty chamber of the revolver. (Refer to the manufacturer for maximum recommended powder charges.)
- If using lubed felt wads, insert a wad into the chamber mouth atop the powder charge, ensuring the wad is not folded or crooked. If not using wads, proceed to step 4.
- Place a pure lead ball or conical bullet into the chamber mouth, and rotate the cylinder until the chamber you’re loading lines up with the revolver’s rammer/loading lever.
- Using the loading lever, press the ball or bullet firmly into the chamber, ensuring the powder charge is compressed and the projectile is seated below the mouth of the chamber.
- If not using lubed felt wads, smear some appropriate black powder grease or lube over the projectile in each loaded chamber.
- Repeat steps 1-6 until each desired chamber is loaded.
- Place a well-fitting percussion cap onto the nipple at the rear of each loaded chamber.
- Lower the hammer onto an empty chamber (preferred) or onto a functioning safety pin or safety notch between chambers.
(If you’re using combustible paper cartridges, you simply insert each cartridge into a chamber with the bullet towards the front, rotate the bullet until it’s below the rammer, and ram it home with the loading lever. When all desired chambers are loaded, place a percussion cap on the nipple at the rear of each loaded chamber. Proceed with step 9 above.)
Note: If you’re loading a Paterson revolver, a Colt 1849 Wells Fargo model, or another type without an integral loading lever, you’ll need to either use a specific loading tool intended for that revolver or remove the cylinder from the gun and use a loading stand or other appropriate tools (see below).
Warning: We do not recommend the non-historical, modern trend of carrying spare, loaded and capped cylinders for a faster reload. Dropping a loaded and capped cylinder can easily set off one or more chambers, and can be dangerous. If you must carry a spare cylinder, leave it uncapped, and place caps on the nipples once you’ve installed the cylinder into the revolver’s frame.
Essential tools and gear for shooting cap and ball revolvers
If you’re willing to put up with some additional inconvenience, you don’t really need much specific gear or many tools to load and shoot cap and ball revolvers. In addition to the necessary components mentioned above (black powder or approved substitute, projectiles, percussion caps, and lube/felt wads), all you really must have is:
- A powder flask and powder measure: If you’re dedicated to a single style and caliber of revolver, a powder flask ($25-$50) with a 15, 20, 25, or 30-grain spout can serve in place of an adjustable powder measure. However, most people will tell you not to load directly from a flask, and will advise that you get a separate, adjustable powder measure ($16-$22) in addition to a flask. They are far more versatile and possibly a bit safer than loading directly from a flask.
- A nipple wrench: Cleaning your black powder revolver after each use is part of the game, and you can’t properly clean your gun without removing and cleaning the nipples. You can either buy an appropriate nipple wrench ($10-$30), or you can make one from a 5mm socket.
- Good hollow-ground gunsmith-type screwdrivers or driver tips: Removing the screws from your cap and ball revolver is essential for disassembly and proper cleaning. Don’t cheap out and try to use hardware-store screwdrivers. Their tips are wedge-shaped and will destroy your gun’s screws quickly. Spring for some good gunsmithing screwdrivers or a driver tip set so you can take your gun apart for cleaning without damaging the screws.
Video: Homemade Nipple Wrench
Additional tools and gear that make cap and ball shooting easier and more fun
In any hobby, there are always the must-have tools and gear, and then there are the nice-to-have tools and gear. After the essentials mentioned above, the next things we’d buy are the following:
- Snail capper or other capping tool: Tedd Cash makes his excellent brass snail-shaped universal capper ($30), which holds 100 #10 or #11 percussion caps and is excellent for Colt Navy and Army revolvers, as well as Walkers and Dragoons. They won’t work on Remington New Model Army revolvers (often mistakenly called the 1858 Remington) without modification to the cylinder around the nipples, but that modification is easy and is worth it to allow the use of a snail capper. For un-modified Remingtons, you can use an inline capper ($15) or one of the many variations of 3D-printed star cappers available today (typically around $5 each).
- Nipple pick: Some nipple wrenches come with these included, and you can use a small safety pin or something similar in a pinch. But you sometimes need a nipple pick ($8-$12) to poke through a clogged nipple to clean it out when in the field.
- Wedge puller: For Colt cap and ball revolvers, a good wedge puller or brass drift ($5) can be a godsend.
- A brass or nylon hammer: For Colts with tight wedges, this tool (typically $20-$25) can help remove and reinstall them without damage.
- Possibles bag or pouch: Types of this item vary widely. You can use a fishing tackle box, toolbox, old purse/pocketbook, courier bag, or any one of multiple styles and sizes of dedicated leather or felt possibles bags. This is simply a container to help organize and transport all your tools, components, and other items necessary for a trip to the range with your cap and ball revolver. Ideally, your choice will keep projectiles, tools, and components in separate compartments or dividers for easy retrieval.
- Loading stand: There are two types of loading stands for cap and ball revolvers. The first simply supports the fully assembled revolver with the muzzle vertical, allowing for easier loading using the revolver’s integral loading lever. The second is a cylinder press-type stand that allows for easy and consistent loading of the cylinder when it’s removed from the firearm. The latter type reduces wear and tear on the revolver and often allows more accurate performance.
Cap-and-ball safety pins and cylinder notches: are they safe?
Should you load 5, or should you load 6? Historically, cap and ball revolvers were carried with all chambers fully loaded, with the nose of the hammer resting between chambers on a safety pin (in the case of the Colt and similar designs) or in a safety notch (in the case of the Remington and similar designs) at the rear of the cylinder. Today, many shooters prefer to carry their cap-and-ball revolvers with one chamber empty, with the hammer resting on that empty chamber. Historical cowboy-shooting/competition organizations like SASS require that 6-shot revolvers be loaded with only 5 shots, and the hammer lowered on an empty chamber. This is undoubtedly the safest way to carry this type of firearm, but if your Colt’s safety pins and hammer are in good shape, or your Remington’s hammer and safety notches are all fitted perfectly to allow proper use, it’s acceptable in most cases to utilize these mechanisms.
However, please note that many, if not most, modern Remington replicas come with oversized hammers and/or undersized safety notches, and it is certainly not recommended to carry a fully loaded chamber in these cases until the hammer nose and cylinder safety notches are properly fitted to allow safe function and use. Additionally, Colt safety pins have been known to break or bend if the cylinder is dropped when out of the gun, or if the gun has been dropped with the hammer resting on a safety pin. So, inspect your firearm carefully and don’t trust safety pins or notches if everything is not in order. Since, for the vast majority of us, carrying and shooting these historical cap-and-ball revolvers is purely recreational in nature, for most people we’d recommend just keeping one chamber empty.
Which powders and propellants are safe in black powder revolvers?
The first thing you should be aware of is that standard, modern smokeless gunpowder should never be used in original or replica black-powder revolvers. These guns were designed for, and may only safely be used with, historical propellants such as genuine black powder or certain modern black-powder substitutes. Our preference and recommendation is for black powder revolvers to be loaded with, you guessed it, black powder, but some modern black powder substitutes such as Hodgdon’s Pyrodex P (for pistol) or Triple 7 can also work well and are more widely available to more users. (Note that Hodgdon instructs users to reduce powder charges by 15% when loading Triple 7 by volume compared to black powder. Pyrodex P can be safely substituted without changing the volume of the charge compared to standard black powder.)
For over 400 years, gunpowder was essentially all identical and was what we today call black powder. Many sources simply called it powder in context. Black powder is a relatively simple combination of charcoal, potassium nitrate (saltpeter), and sulfur. The sulfur and charcoal act as fuels, and the saltpeter is an oxidizer that accelerates the burning of the mixture. By far the most prevalent use of black powder today is in pyrotechnics and fireworks, but it is also still used in some military munitions and can be obtained (with special shipping and HAZMAT conditions) by shooters of historical firearms or black-powder rifle hunters.
Black powder is considered a low-explosive and is classified by the US Department of Transportation as a Division 1.1 Explosive Material. Modern smokeless gunpowder (including black powder substitutes) may be classed as Division 1.3C (UN0161) or Division 1.4C (UN0509), and some smokeless powder may be reclassified to Smokeless powder for small arms, Division 4.1 hazard class (flammable solid material) for domestic transportation.
The upshot here is that genuine, real black powder is classified differently from modern smokeless powder, and carries additional transportation and storage requirements that do not apply to other modern gunpowders, including black-powder substitutes. For this reason, you will not often find black powder on the shelves of your favorite gun shop or reloading supply center, since sellers of black powder have to set up and maintain special black powder storage areas. Most local gun shops have decided it’s not worth the trouble and cost to sell black powder anymore.
The most convenient, and usually least expensive way, to purchase real black powder today is via online sellers. Suppose you can gather a group of shooting buddies and go in on a larger order of 10 or 20 pounds at a time (the maximum permissible by law is 25 pounds in a single lot, with a maximum of 2 lots per order). In that case, you can split the HAZMAT, handling, and shipping costs and get the price per pound down to around $30 or so. We’ve had good luck with Buffalo Arms. Powder Inc. also has a good reputation.
What are the different types or granulations of black powder and substitutes?
The main powder granulations used in black powder firearms today are Fg (1Fg), FFg (2Fg), FFFg (3Fg), and FFFFg (4Fg). Occasionally, you will find 1.5Fg being used by historical reenactors, but it’s relatively rare. There are also coarser grades used as cannon or artillery powder. The F stands for Fine, and the more Fs, or the higher the number, the finer the granulation of the powder, and the easier and faster it ignites and burns.
By far the most common granulations used among black powder shooters are FFg and FFFg (2Fg and 3Fg). A familiar axiom is that FFg powder is best used in firearms of caliber .50 and larger, and FFFg is best in firearms of caliber .45 and smaller. There is some variation and disagreement on this once you get really into the weeds among hardcore black powder shooters, but if you follow that advice, you’ll generally stay safe.
It’s always safe to use a coarser/larger granulation than recommended, such as using Fg or FFg in a small pistol designed for FFFg. In some cases, you may have ignition issues, and can potentially stick a projectile in the barrel depending on the size of the powder charge. However, it may be unsafe and is not recommended to use a smaller/finer granulation than specified, since a volumetric charge of FFFg or FFFFg contains less air space and thus more energy (and burns more energetically) than larger granulations. You would never want to load the same volume of FFFFg into a cannon, musket, or large-caliber black powder firearm as you would load cannon powder, Fg, or 1.5Fg, for example. FFFFg is intended for use in very small-caliber revolvers/pistols and as a flintlock priming powder only.
For black powder revolvers, the most versatile granulation and overall best choice for most people is FFFg or 3Fg. Most black powder substitutes intended for use in revolvers will indicate that they are 3Fg equivalent.
Do I measure black powder and substitutes by volume or by weight?
The short answer is that for 99% of shooters, black powder charges should be measured by volume, using a commonly available volumetric black-powder measure. However, the deep-dive answer is a little more nuanced. All gunpowders, including black powder, substitutes, and smokeless, are technically measured by weight, but are dispensed by volume. If you’re loading metallic cartridges, you must develop your loads by weighing charges on an appropriate scale, in units of measure called grains. There are 7,000 grains to a pound. There is no such thing as a volumetric unit of grains. All grains are a unit of weight. Consulting published reloading data, you arrive at a suitable charge (by weight) of powder that both is safe in your firearm and provides the accuracy or performance you are seeking, and then you adjust your volumetric powder measure until it dispenses (by volume) that charge of powder.
Volumetric powder measures used in black powder shooting typically have adjustable graduation lines indicating grains in 5- or 10-grain increments. These powder measures will typically get you close enough to the indicated charge weight when dispensing black powder (or substitutes) by volume. In other words, when you set your powder measure to 30 grains, and pour in your FFg or FFFg powder, when that charge is weighed it should be relatively close to 30 grains. However, in general, powder measure makers err on the side of caution, so a 30 grain charge measured by volume may actually weigh out at 29.4, 28.7 or some other number, rather than 31 or 32 grains. This is a safety measure and the vast majority of cap-and-ball shooters will never be able to tell any difference in accuracy between a true 30-grain charge and a 29.2-grain charge.
Additionally, you can measure out 2 charges of black powder using the same volumetric measure and can get different weights of powder, depending on how aggressively you scoop powder into the measure, or whether you tap it to settle the charge, or how hard you press your finger against the end of a powder flask, or how you scrape off the excess powder at the mouth of the measure. The key is to try to achieve consistency in how you dispense each charge.
Serious black-powder target-shooting competitors who have good enough skills and equipment to shoot the difference between, say, 18 and 20 grains will typically weigh each charge of powder and bring them to the match in individual plastic containers for convenient loading. But again, for the vast majority of us regular people, we dispense our charges by volume during the loading process in the field or at the range. We’ve found that GOEX FFg black powder usually comes closest to weighing the number of grains indicated on most powder measures, but other FFg or FFFg powders from other makers are typically within 2 grains or so, which is well within the margin of safety when shooting black powder revolvers.
Black powder firearms require immediate cleaning
While modern firearms shooting modern ammunition can go many thousands of rounds between cleanings without serious damage, with black powder firearms, including those using black powder substitute propellants, it’s vital that you accept a proper cleaning regimen as part of each outing.
The corrosive salts that result from igniting the percussion caps, as well as the hygroscopic (water-attracting) fouling that results when black powder (and many substitutes) is burned, can cause serious damage to the metal parts of your firearms in a matter of hours if conditions are right.
Ideally, these guns should be thoroughly disassembled and cleaned the same day they are used, and it’s important to go one extra step before the usual cleaning with gun solvents and oils. You can buy black-powder-specific cleaning solutions, but the main ingredient in all of them is simply water, which washes away and neutralizes the corrosive salts. It’s perfectly acceptable to use hot soapy water or a concoction known in the black-powder community as moose milk (a combination of Ballistol and water) to wash out the chambers, bore, nipples, frame, and anywhere else this corrosive fouling is deposited, before thoroughly drying and then cleaning and lubricating as you would any other firearm under normal use.
It’s also a good idea to inspect your black-powder firearms regularly while in storage, to watch for any signs of creeping rust.
Brass vs. steel-framed revolvers: pros and cons
Brass and steel are the most common materials used in making cap and ball revolvers. Sometimes the frame (surrounding the cylinder) is made of brass, and sometimes it’s made of steel. Sometimes just the gripframe and/or trigger guard is made of brass. Sometimes the revolver is constructed entirely of steel. When we talk about brass-framed revolvers, we mean that the frame surrounding the cylinder, into which the barrel is fixed, and which contains the trigger mechanism, is made of brass, rather than steel. Each type has its pros and cons, so let’s go over them briefly.
What are the benefits of a brass-framed black-powder revolver compared to steel?
- Lower cost: The primary benefit of making a revolver out of brass is that it costs less to make, so the purchase price is usually lower than a steel-framed gun, all else being equal. A brass-framed model might cost $50 or even $100 less than a steel-framed gun of the same design, from the same manufacturer. Ironically, brass is materially more expensive than most steel, but that’s not the largest impact on the price of a revolver. Brass, an alloy of copper and zinc, is known for its malleability and ease of machining, because it’s softer than steel, which is an alloy of iron. Thus a brass-framed revolver is far easier and less time-consuming to machine and polish, causes less wear on expensive cutting and milling tools, and results in a more budget-friendly revolver.
- Historically accurate: Many people get into cap-and-ball revolvers at least partially due to their history. Civil War buffs, in particular those interested in the arms of the Confederacy, may find themselves drawn to brass-framed revolvers since the small number of Confederate-built revolvers typically had brass frames. Brass was more available than iron or steel in the Southern states, and was easier to cast and work with.
- Appearance and aesthetics: Brass has a unique and attractive appearance, whether it’s polished bright, allowed to tarnish and age, or even when it corrodes to a green-blue verdigris stage. Many people are drawn to the warm, gold-and-rose tones of a polished brass-framed revolver.
Disadvantages of brass-framed cap and ball revolvers compared to steel
- Much softer than steel: Brass has a Brinell hardness of around 60, while steel’s hardness can range from 100 to over 400 depending on type and heat treatment. This means a brass-framed revolver is simply not as durable as a steel-framed one. Even with lighter loads, a brass revolver frame will experience battering at the recoil shield and stretching at the forcing cone much more quickly than a quality steel-framed gun. In some cases, a brass-framed revolver can shoot loose in a remarkably short time, to the point that it cannot be repaired or safely used.
- Reduced-power loads are recommended: Since brass-framed revolvers are less durable, most manufacturers recommend reducing your powder charges by as much as 50% when shooting a brass-framed gun. If you are trying to get the most velocity and power out of your cap-and-ball revolver as is safely possible, you’ll definitely want to avoid brass frames.
- Increased weight: Brass is generally a little heavier than most steels used in firearms, so if you’re trying to keep your firearm as light as possible, brass is usually not the way to go.
- Brass tarnishes if left untreated: Sometimes brass revolver frames are clear-coated to help preserve their bright-polished shine, but most of the time the surface is left raw. Over time, the brightness will dull and the color will darken, even if the gun is never handled or used. Clear-coated brass finishes often chip or peel when used frequently, which can result in a very unattractive appearance.
- Brass reacts quickly with acids and fouling: All firearms should be wiped free of fingerprints and cleaned properly after use, but this is even more vital if you want to keep your brass-framed cap-and-ball revolver looking bright and shiny. Black powder fouling is very corrosive, and shooting/handling these revolvers can turn a beautiful polished brass finish splotchy and dull in no time. Some people like the tarnished, well-used patina, but if you like your guns shiny and new-looking, you’ll need to bone up on your cleaning and polishing skills. Case-hardened or blued steel frames generally tolerate more neglect before corroding.
Best/most reliable manufacturers of cap-and-ball revolvers
Replica cap-and-ball revolvers have been produced since the 1950s, starting in Italy, and there have been more than 75 cap-and-ball manufacturers and importers over the decades. Today, there are really only 2 (technically 3) remaining makers of replica cap-and-ball revolvers, all of them based in Italy.
Uberti
Uberti, founded in 1959, is usually considered the more premium option of the two major black-powder revolver manufacturers, though that has been changing somewhat over the past couple of decades. Uberti revolvers are generally better-looking than their current competition, with nicely finished metal, well-fitted, varnished wood stocks, and more historically accurate dimensions and markings. Many collectors appreciate that Uberti hides their manufacturing information and other required roll markings under the bottom of the barrels, rather than prominently placing them along the sides of the barrels like Pietta, for example. If the appearance of your replica cap-and-ball revolver matters most to you, then Uberti will likely be a front-runner.
Some caveats: Lower-production Uberti models such as their Colt 1849 Pocket Model and 1862 Pocket Police can frequently exhibit quality control issues and may require some significant tinkering or even gunsmithing before they will function properly. Additionally, nearly all Uberti Colt replicas come from the factory with short arbors, which may or may not be a problem depending on how often and hard you use your revolvers. This condition can easily be remedied by employing shims or a knowledgeable cap-and-ball gunsmith. These issues aside, Uberti offers a variety of different historical models of cap and ball revolvers, and if you’re looking for a particular niche, it might be your only choice. Overall, Uberti’s mainstream cap-and-ball models such as the Colt Navy, Army, Walker, and Dragoon, and their Remington Army/Navy are high-quality, good-looking replicas and rarely exhibit any serious issues for those that buy and use them.
Pietta
Pietta, founded in 1963, is historically thought of as the budget or value-level option between Uberti and Pietta. However, while in the 20th century this may have been somewhat true, over the past 25 years Pietta has taken great strides in improving the quality of their products, and many informed individuals now name Pietta as the overall best brand, especially considering they typically cost a little less than Uberti’s offerings.
In times past, Piettas sometimes came from the factory with timing issues, rough internal parts, poorly fitted grips, and/or soft screws, but modern CNC production methods and improved quality control have largely eliminated these issues. As noted above, Pietta still marks their revolvers with prominent manufacturer info and other required stampings along the sides of their barrels, which annoys people who are seeking a more historical-looking firearm. However, lately the company has switched from using deep roll-stampings to more subtle (and shallower) laser etching, which has improved the appearance dramatically. In our experience, the majority of Pietta’s recent revolvers come with grips well-fitted, parts nicely polished, and the action timed well from the factory. Overall Pietta is a solid choice, and is the favorite replica maker of more than one knowledgeable collector and shooter.
Pedersoli
Pedersoli is the oldest remaining replica arms maker, founded in 1957. They primarily focus on fine rifles, muskets, and shotguns, but also offer (or did, until recently) their Target Model Remington New Model Army. Intended for serious competitors in international black-powder target shooting, the Pedersoli Remington (retailing for around $1,500 and almost always out of stock) costs up to 5 or 6 times more than an Uberti or Pietta. However, as the man says, you get what you pay for.
The Pedersoli’s smaller overall dimensions are closer to a historical Remington than either the Uberti or Pietta. Its steel frame is forged, rather than cast like the other makers, and it comes with a better trigger, with all internal parts polished and fitted. Target shooters often favor the Pedersoli since its front sight is dovetailed (rather than simply pressed or brazed in place) and is oversized for custom point-of-impact adjustment. The revolver’s match-grade barrel has a faster 1:19 twist rate, is broach-rifled, and its lands and grooves are polished for exceptional accuracy. Oversized target grips are fitted, and an extra, unfitted and unfinished grip is provided with each new revolver, so the shooter can customize a grip that exactly fits his or her hand if desired.
Pedersoli no longer offers any Colt-pattern revolvers for sale in the US, and availability of the Target Remington is extremely spotty. But if you like Remingtons and you want the best available, it might be worth tracking down a Pedersoli.
Where can I buy a black powder revolver?
Since, by federal US law, replica black powder revolvers aren’t legally considered firearms, in many states you can simply order one directly through the mail or via internet sellers. However, it’s very important that you check and follow your local laws. Several states and counties have passed legislation requiring that replica black powder arms be sold/transferred via a FFL-licensed dealer, the same as any modern firearm. Whether you can have your cap-and-ball revolver sent directly to your place of residence or whether you need to go via a local dealer, here are some well-reputed companies that sell them:
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